July 14th

National Mac and Cheese Day

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Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing macaroni and cheese to America, which is partially true and partially the kind of story that gets attached to famous founders because it makes history more interesting. Jefferson did encounter pasta and cheese dishes in France and Italy during his time as minister to France in the 1780s, and he did serve a dish of "macaroni" at a White House dinner in 1802 — described by a guest as "a pie called macaroni" — and he did bring a pasta machine back from Europe. What Jefferson almost certainly did not do was invent the recipe or introduce it to a country that had never heard of it. Macaroni and cheese recipes appear in English and American cookbooks from the late 18th century, predating Jefferson's dinner by decades. What he contributed was social legitimacy, not culinary discovery.

National Mac and Cheese Day on July 14th celebrates a dish whose history spans from 14th-century Italian manuscripts to Thomas Jefferson's White House to a Kraft Foods marketing decision during the Great Depression that turned it into America's most democratic comfort food. It is a dish that exists simultaneously as haute cuisine and as a box of orange powder, and the people who love the expensive version and the people who love the $1.09 box version are both entirely correct. The noodle doesn't know what it costs. The pleasure is the same.

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